ethnic tourism

Talk about beaches in Indonesia and most people will picture the golden sands of Kuta, a sight seen for the first time from the window of a plane as it circled to land at Bali’s Ngurah Rai airport. But on the western tip of Bali’s more populous neighbour, Java, there are a host of fantastic beaches within close reach of the nation’s bustling capital. West Java is home to delicate Sundanese culture, with it’s wayang golek wooden puppets, gamelan orchestras, a distinctive cuisine, plenty of spectacular beaches just waiting to be discovered.

Pelabuhan Ratu
On the south coast, around four hours drive from Jakarta, Pelabuhan Ratu (Queen’s Harbour) is a seaside resort town with an abundance of restaurants and hotels. The scenery here is dramatic, with steep hill sides stretching down to the water. The turbulent seas have made this a favourite place for surfers seeking that perfect break, and other aquatic distractions are available with several excellent scuba diving sites and jet skis for hire for a high-powered thrill.

There’s no shortage of distractions on land either. Within a short drive from the main town is Caipanas an area famous for its hot springs. Situated in a small stream, the springs spout high pressure steam several metres into the air. The water is said to have healing powers for all sorts of minor ailments and
people come from all around to bath here. The views on the drive are also spectacular.

Passing through the town to the east is one of the most incredible sights in the area With a huge gaping entrance, Goa Lalay(Bat Cave) is an enormous cave stretching into twenty-metre-high cliff face filled overflowing with tiny hats. A tentatif exploration inside the entrance reveals them clinging to the ceiling in their hundreds of thousands. As the sun dips down in the west, the multitude of bats inside the cave become more and more active, chittering away and flying around in circles, until suddenly they burst out in a single column flying straight into the sunset. This continues unabated for around twenty minutes, and one can only marvel at the number of bats that must be resident in the cave.

Accommodation options at Pelabuhan Ratu are plentiful. For backpackers there are scores of budget losmen (hostels) to choose from. When you hit the main town, turn right and keep going as far out as you want until you find a place that suits. The coast road is beautiful in itself as it winds up and down the hills with dense jungle on both sides in some parts. For those looking for a little more comfort didesa’ rescnt (Jl Raya Cisolok km.8 no.23 Cimaja. Tel: (0266) 433300, 433288) is the best bet with a cosy, rustic charm and walkways leading down to the beach. There’s even a small surf shop for a11 those essential surfing items, and a tower in the main building so you can check whether the `surf’s up’. The restaurant serves a delicious blend of local and international cuisine. For excellent seafood try Padi Padi, restaurant and hotel (Tel: 0266-431 235).

Anyer
Around two hours drive out of Jakarta on the Merak toll road, Anyer is a popular seaside retreat for city-weary Jakartans seeking an escape from the bustle of the city. Stretching for miles along the coast, there is a wide selection of hotels, cottages and villas to choose from, and plenty of road-side seafood restaurants offering the day’s catch. Sunsets in this area are spectacular and the countryside is quite dramatic with palm tree-lined peninsulars stretching into the shimmering waters - very picturesque, and ideal for shutterbugs seeking that perfect shot of a tropical sunset. Aquatic activities are plentiful with jetskis making a common sight carving their way across the water’s surface. The Sol Elite Marbella (Jl Raya Karang Bolong, Desa Bandulu - Anyer 42166, Jawa Barat - Indonesia Tel: 62-254-602345 Fax: 62-254-602346) is a spectacular five star resort situated directly on a stretch of beautiful beach. With a dusky Spanish design, picture-postcard views and beautifully tailored gardens and swimming lagoon, this makes a perfect weekend getaway for the family. Attractions in the area include Karang Bolong, a stone archway formed by the action of the tides that forms a kind of natural bridge. In Banten, not far from here, you’ll find intriguing ruins of what was once one of the world’s most important trading ports, including a Dutch fort and the remains of a sixteenth century mosque. For the adventurous traveller, trips can be arranged to visit the secretive Badui society which has managed to resist modernization and still exists isolated in the forests of the interior using age-old methods of cultivation.

The main tourism drawcard is the infamous Krakatau volcano which exploded with cataclysmic force in 1883 causing widespread destruction and tidal waves in the surrounding areas. The explosion was of such magnitude that it was heard as far away as Burma, and Perth in Western Australia. It was 26 times as powerful as a hydrogen bomb, and caused the island to literally explode into fragments. A Dutch gun boat was found on the side of a hill some two kilometres inland, and over one hundred villages were just washed away. In 1928 a new volcano Anak Krakatau (Krakatau’s child) nudged its way through the waves of the Sunda Strait and began growing at a startling rate. Today it regularly spews gas and rocks high into the atmosphere making an incredible sight.

The chance to see such a legendary volcano is obviously one of the main attractions, and tours to the,island can be arranged through the resort. It takes a few hours to get to Anak Krakatau and it can get pretty rough, so take your seasickness tablets. Once you’re there you can laze around on the adjacent island of Rakata, the leftover chunk of the old Krakatau. With dense forest and untouched beaches this a great place to have lunch, and take a stroll or a dip in the warm tropical waters, before attempting the voyage back to the mainland.

Tanjung Lesung/Ujung Kulon
Around three hours drive to the West of Jakarta, the Tanjung Lesung Resort (Tel: 0253-82900, 82890 Fax: 0253-82891) is situated on 1500 hectares and includes around 60 resort cottages, a beach club and a sailing club. With further development planned including golf courses, villas and more hotels, the area aspires to become a ‘Nusa Dua-like’ enclave of upmarket properties. With its close proximity to the capital, improvements to the road are currently being planned and the area looks set to become a major international tourism destination.

Water activities are also popular and can be arranged through the adjacent Beach Club or Sailing Club. Jet skiing, sailing and scuba diving are all available as well as land based activities like cycling and sports.

Tanjung Lesung’s `Krakatau Bar’ overlooking the sea is the perfect place to relax and unwind with your favourite cocktail. Set amongst tropical gardens, the sea breeze and swaying palms make this a very romantic location.Boat trips to Krakatau can also be arranged from Tanjung Lesung, and also to the area’s other main attraction, Ujung Kulon National Park. For the more adventurous traveller, Ujung Kulon represents the last refuge for the endangered Javan Rhinoceros.
Sightings of the jungle giant are however quite rare and require weeks of dedicated searching. However there are many other species of native wildlife and the scenery is simply spectacular with pristine white beaches and incredible sunsets. From January to March the westerly winds can make boat trips a little bumpy as waves get quite high. It’s no cruise down the Blue Danube, but the scenery is incomparable.

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