ethnic tourism

Dust rising from a barren track which wound its way through cacti ravaged hills of rock and dry soil; setting off for Amed on the coastal road from Ujung was more reminiscent of T.S Elliot’s Wasteland than the images of lush green paddies for which the island is better known.

This is Bali‘s eastern tip and for the majority of visitors to the island a road never travelled. This is partly because it is situated a fair way from the tourist hubs of the south making it inaccessible as a day trip and partly because the road itself is not a major thoroughfare and is in desperate need of resurfacing. However the adventurous explorer will discover a stunning, if very bumpy, path that reveals a totally new side to the island rewarding those with good suspension with an adventure into a land of desolate beauty.

A good place to start an eastern safari is the colourful beach town of Candidasa which offers a full range of accommodation from the exclusive Aman and Serai resorts to cheap and cheerful guest houses. There is a good choice of restaurants here for the gourmet traveller with an emphasis on fresh seafood plucked earlier from the lapping clear waters of the Lombok Strait. Nearby attractions include the ancient village of Tenganan, populated by `Bali Aga’, the island’s original indigenous population. This previously isolated village was formed over 500 years ago in a bid to escape the growing influence of Hindu Javanese Majapahit culture. The differences in architecture and custom with the rest of the island are immediately apparent. Compared to the recognisable colourful expressionism of the majority of Balinese culture, the buildings and temples in Tenganan are hardly decorated and have a much more rural feel. This is not to say that the inhabitants are not creative as Tenganan is a lively centre for traditional ikat(fabric) weaving, traditional lontar palm books and an ancient form of gamelan (music) not found anywhere else on the island. The double ikat technique geringsing practised here is also unique to Tenganan and visitors can watch the lengthy process in action at any number of small galleries and shops.

The road east from Candidasa cuts through spectacular scenery of a more recognisably Balinese ilk; beautifully sculpted rice paddy basins stretching from sloping hills right down to the glimmering ocean. About 30 minutes drive from Candidasa is the historical and picturesque town of Amlapura, once named Karangasem, the capital of the regency with the same name and rechristened after the eruption of the nearby Mount Agung in 1963 in a bid to hopefully prevent future eruptions. Once a powerful and important city, Amlapura is now best known for the Puri Agung palace in town and the Taman Ujung Water Palace a few kilometres to the south. If you want to attempt the coastal road to Amed around Mount Seraya then head for Ujung out of Amlapura. As the traffic drops off, so does the road and as you head up to Seraya the going is very slow, bumpy and difficult to negotiate. The views however are magnificent and the countryside far removed from the fertile inland plains. Out of the rocky soil the local farmers harvest cassava, tapioca and peanuts with the land far too dry for rice cultivation. This is definitely the road less travelled and apart from the odd mountain goat you will find yourself completely alone. If the thought of four hours on this rocky rollercoaster doesn’t appeal, an alternative is to take the main road north to Culik and then take a smaller road east to Amed. This cuts about three hours out of the journey and allows you to explore the road back towards Ujang for as long as you feel fit.

Amed is a small coastal village which survives on harvesting seasalt and a growing tourism industry. The coastal road is dotted with a selection of guest houses and small hotels ranging from the upmarket Indra Udhyana which offers luxury accommodation for over US $100 a night, middle of the range rooms including the Amed Beach Cottages and Good Karma Cottages which have rooms from US $9 and cheap losmens for less than Rp50;000. The major attraction for visitors to this area is the peace and seclusion - you are not hassled at all by vendors - and its proximity to some of the best diving on the island.

The coastal road winds round rocky coves and secluded bays bordered by a sparkling ocean speckled with colourful jukung (fishing boats). The beaches around Amed play host to the various stages of salt production which convert seawater into salt in about a week. The hot dry climate is ideal for evaporating the sea water, first in muddy sand fields and then in hollowed out coconut trees until all that remains is thick crystals which are then scraped out, dried again and then sold at the market.

For a journey into a Bali that not many know exists, this eastern tip surrounding Mount Seraya offers the intrepid traveller a part of the island which still retains an adventurous new territory feeling and is definitely recommended to all.

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